Do strawberry plants need winter protection? What is the best place for the sweet fruits? Are hanging strawberries allowed to stay outside all year round? And is it possible to store wild strawberries in the cellar during the winter? Many helpful tips on wintering strawberries can be found in this guide.
Contents
Relevance of the variety
Depending on the variety, the red field fruits not only taste more or less intensely sweet, but also have vegetative differences. For example, monthly strawberries are considered very easy to care for, as they hardly form offshoots that the gardener must cut off before winter. Nevertheless, removal of dead foliage is also necessary for this species. The also popular wild strawberries are a relatively new cultivation, which is considered particularly robust. Winter protection is nevertheless necessary
Whether the gardener grows once-bearing or always-bearing strawberries, wintering does not matter. Almost every variety is perennial, so the name sounds a little misleading. In this case, once-bearing does not mean that the plants must be disposed of after harvesting, but that they bear fruit only once per season. What is significant, on the other hand, is the time at which the particular variety forms fruit. Late varieties gardener must not cut after harvest, because they would not recover before the temperature drop.
Note: In principle, all strawberry varieties are perennial. However, even ever-bearing species produce fewer fruits after three years at the latest. This is quite natural and has nothing to do with inadequate overwintering.
Relevance of the site
Fragaria is a shallow rooter. Since the root system runs just below the surface of the soil, fruit plants are particularly susceptible to frost. As soon as the soil freezes completely, the plant dies. The extent to which winter protection is required is determined by the form of cultivation.
Wintering outdoors
Outdoor strawberries are exposed to sub-zero temperatures without protection. Especially on clayey soils, there is a high risk that the substrate will freeze, because under these conditions in winter water quickly accumulates. The gardener can prevent the cold death of his crops in the following ways:
- after harvesting, cut back all withered parts of the plant
- also remove unnecessary cuttings
- in no case damage the heart leaf
- loosen the soil with sand
- apply a layer of straw or mulch on the root disk
- alternatively use a breathable winter fleece
- additionally enrich the substrate with compost
Note: In addition, it is possible to cover monthly strawberries with a tarp. As soon as the temperatures permanently rose above freezing, self-supporters must necessarily remove it again. Since the air accumulates under the material, otherwise there is an acute risk of mold.
Wintering in the raised bed
The raised bed is a popular location for monthly strawberries. Although it provides good protection against pests, but in winter the soil threatens to freeze completely. To prevent this, the gardener encases the bed with polystyrene sheets. They can be fixed with wire or additional wooden pallets. After the cold period, they are removed again.
Wintering in the pot
Although there is generally a higher risk of the substrate freezing completely when growing in pots, since this type of cultivation is usually done on the balcony, the strawberries benefit from the protection of a house wall. Take into account the self-supporter should not expose hanging strawberries to cold drafts. Close to the facade, he winters his tub strawberries as follows:
- cut back after harvesting
- apply a protective layer of mulch, straw, perlite, wood wool or sawdust
- place standing pots on a wooden board or styrofoam
- line pots with jute or bubble wrap
Why remove the foliage?
By cutting foliage back to the ground, gardeners prevent it from robbing plants of unnecessary energy. Without the above-ground growth, they can fully concentrate on their own cold defense. Optimally, pruning should be done promptly, around July. In October, the gardener again removes runners that have newly formed in the past two months, as needed. So that as far as possible no cut wounds remain, he should use sharp, sterile secateurs.
Note: To cut off the above-ground growth of outdoor strawberries, a lawn mower is also suitable. Since the cuttings on the stems must dry out before the first frost, gardeners should tackle this radical method a few weeks earlier.
Nutrient supply
Although strawberries are among the weakest growers, a fertilizer application before winter promises a richer harvest next year. Regardless of the method of cultivation, the incorporation of organic material (for example, home-made fertilizer) is sufficient.
Wintering in the cellar
Wintering in the cellar is not advisable if it can be avoided. With potted plants, the move is still quite simple. Outdoor strawberries would have to be dug up and potted.
An exception are young plants that can no longer be placed in the ground in time. They must necessarily be stored in an all-around frost-free place.
Note: A self-supporter must plant new strawberry plants in the raised bed by the end of August at the latest, so that they have enough time to get used to the new location.
Caring for strawberries in winter
Despite cold temperatures, gardeners must maintain a water supply. On frost-free days, they should still water the plants. It is very important that no waterlogging occurs. This increases the risk of the plants dying when it freezes at night.
Regular pest control is also part of winter care.
Note: Gardeners should always use new material to protect the roots. The plants’ withered foliage is not suitable, as fungal spores may have taken up residence. Dropped leaves should always be removed right away.
How long to overwinter?
With the spring awakening, the overwintering is not yet over. Late frosts are possible until the Ice Saints in mid-May. Often gardeners forget about the usual drop in temperature after the winter months. If the flowers freeze, the harvest in the summer will fail.
