How Do You Grow Balcony Strawberries?

Probably the European’s favorite fruit is the strawberry. They are sweet as sugar and super tasty in other ways, too. So much the better that growing them is so uncomplicated, as long as you take a few things into account.

Site conditions

Strawberries are real sun children. In order to develop many delicious fruits, they need a place protected from the wind and rain, and especially sunny. However, the location on the balcony should still be airy. Optimal conditions are usually on a south-facing balcony or south-west balcony. But even in semi-shaded locations you do not have to give up the pleasure of strawberries, because wild and monthly strawberries also thrive there.

Soil condition

When choosing a substrate, you should know that strawberries belong to the so-called heavy eaters. Consequently, the soil should be rich in nutrients. Thus, normal standard soil is suitable as well as planting, perennial or container plant soil. Additives such as perlite or expanded clay are very welcome. They store water and release it slowly to the plant. Bark mulch should be avoided and, for the sake of the environment, peat.

The right planter

When choosing the right planter, it is important that it is large enough for the strawberry plants to develop well. The fine roots are mainly located in the upper 15 cm of the pot. Accordingly, the for a single plant should have a depth of at least 15 cm and a diameter of 12-15 cm.

For several specimens, square containers with a size of 30 x 30 cm or flower boxes with a length of 60, 90 or 120 cm are suitable. Numerous variants are offered in stores. For example, there are constructions with several planting tiers or so-called strawberry towers for hanging and climbing varieties.

Tip: If space on the balcony is limited, climbing and hanging strawberries are ideal.

Best time to plant

The right time to plant depends on the variety. The best time to plant is between mid/late July and mid-August. Ever-bearing or frequent-bearing varieties are planted from August to September. An exception are so-called frigo plants, which are uprooted between November and February and stored at minus two degrees. They can be planted almost all year round, i.e. from March to September. It is not uncommon for them to consist only of rhizome and roots and bear fruit ready for harvesting after only about eight weeks.

Gaining young plants

Strawberry plants continuously form long runners with small offshoots that are perfect for planting. Offshoots that are not needed for propagation should be cut close to the mother plant as soon as they are discovered.

• close to the mother plant. If you do not do this, they take a lot of strength from the plant, which in turn is at the expense of flowering and consequently fruit.

Tip: If you do not have your own plants, you can buy vigorous young plants from early spring in garden centers, hardware stores or nurseries.

Planting instructions for your own cuttings

• fill a small pot with good planting soil
• select a cutting from a particularly productive plant
• place on the soil in the pot
• do not separate from the mother plant yet
• fix it on the soil with a wire
• cut the connection to the mother plant only after the roots have formed
• transplant into good potting soil
• one plant needs about 30 cm of space
• after the end of the season apply organic strawberry fertilizer
• Purchased young plants

Fill planters with soil two weeks before planting

• Water the soil afterwards
• allow to settle until planting
• add half a teaspoon of strawberry fertilizer if necessary
• water bare-root plants a few hours before planting
• then loosen roots a little and plant
• also water potted specimens briefly
• planting distances of about 25 cm are recommended
• Lightly press down the soil, water

Tip: When planting, the root neck of the young plant should be flush with the ground so that the heart is exposed. If it is too low, there is a risk of rotting, if it is too high, the heart can dry out, leading to total failure.

Subsequent care

• water thoroughly immediately after planting
• next two to three weeks on sufficient
• water supply for the next two to three weeks
• from flowering to fruiting water regularly
• the more often, the smaller the planter is
• at best always water in the morning
• mold in the pot and on the leaves so avoidable
• Empty saucers and planters regularly
• fertilize once-bearing varieties after harvest in August
• multiple bearing varieties in spring and autumn
• with compost, horse manure or special berry fertilizer
• remove weeds regularly
• cut off excess runners or offshoots

Tip: If you combine different varieties, for example double-bearing and ever-bearing varieties with each other, you will have something to snack on all summer long.

Mulch in hot summers

In particularly hot and dry summers, it is advisable to mulch the soil around the strawberry plants with hay, straw or dried lawn clippings. On the one hand, the mulch keeps the moisture in the soil longer, and on the other hand, it protects the fruit from moisture and, consequently, from rotting. However, care should be taken that the layer is not too dense and that the plant continues to be well ventilated all around. Very good are also comfrey leaves for mulching. The potassium they contain allows the fruit to ripen better, strengthens cell tissue and makes the plants more resistant to diseases and pests.

Replace plants every three years

Strawberry plants usually bear best in the second year of standing. After three years, the yields decrease sharply, and the fruits become smaller every year. For this reason, it is advisable to replace them with fresh young plants every three years. Many replace them already after the second year. Of course, the soil should also be renewed in the process.

Winter protection for balcony strawberries

In the garden, strawberries do not require any winter protection. The situation is different for plants in pots, tubs or window boxes. In late fall, when the strawberry season comes to an end, they should be cut back. Both leaves and stolons are removed. The purpose of this measure is to prevent fungal attack, because the leaves are susceptible to red and white spot disease. The heart of the plant should be preserved.

The pot or window box is then placed in a sheltered place near the house on a wooden pallet or polystyrene board. A roofed place is ideal. To protect the root area from freezing through, protect the pot from the outside and underneath with cold-insulating materials such as fleece or bubble wrap and also cover it with brushwood, straw or mulch.

Yield-increasing measures

Since the space available on most balconies is rather limited, there are a few things you can do to get the best out of your plants and increase yields. And this can be done without much effort.

• Remove long, leafless runners regularly
• if not needed for propagation
• selectively pinch out flowers in the first year
• for varieties bearing in June, remove all flowers
• in the case of more frequently bearing varieties, continue grafting until the end of June
• thus harvest in autumn
• Plants are strengthened in this way
• Consequences are increased flowering and fruiting in the second year
• Yield can also be increased by repotting the plants in fresh soil in spring or working compost into the upper substrate layer

Strawberry varieties for the balcony

Arabella

• high-yielding and frost-hardy variety
• very large, easy to pick fruits
• long harvest season from June to October

Toscana

• variety with large decorative pink flowers
• wonderfully aromatic, sweet fruits from May to October
• also bears on the stolons

Cupido

• convinces with intensive strawberry aroma
• very good fruiting bright red strawberry
• continuous blooming, medium sized fruits from May to September

Viva Rosa

• pink flowers, elongated, medium sized fruits
• blooms and bears all summer

‘Aromastar’

• large bright red fruits
• robust variety with wonderful wild strawberry aroma
• harvest from June

‘Klettertoni’

• climbing strawberry with deep red aromatic, juicy-sweet fruits
• harvest from June until frost
• climbing aid recommended